题目内容

The restoring force of surface gravity wave is _______________.

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Two major types of oceanic surface waves, according to whether the force of wind stress plays a part or not, areand .

______________ of wave is the measurement of the number of times that a repeated event occurs per unit time.

The ________________ is the maximum depth at which at which a water wave’s passage causes significant water motion significant water motion.

The phenomena that wave crests bend which occur when waves approaching the shore is called ________________.