题目内容
The ratio of wave height to the wave length is called __________________. If this ratio exceeds ________________, the wave breaks, because the wave is too steep to support itself.
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Deep-water waves move at speeds controlled by ____________________; Shallow-water waves move at speeds controlled by ______________________.
The restoring force of surface gravity wave is _______________.
Two major types of oceanic surface waves, according to whether the force of wind stress plays a part or not, areand .
______________ of wave is the measurement of the number of times that a repeated event occurs per unit time.
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